This week has been rather an odd one. The Pharos arrived on
Sunday and ever since then was at the end of the wharf metaphorically hanging
over the heads of those who were leaving on Friday. We had the Chief Justice on
the island for a familiarisation trip as well; he came around the base to see what we do and to
the bar on Wednesday evening to chat to us.
On Thursday we had an extended boating trip to Stromness so
Keiron (GO) could photograph the site of an accident to a cruise ship
passenger. We took Pipit and Luna and headed off at the very reasonable time of
0900. It was the most glorious ‘dingle’ day. The sun was shining and the sky
was that peculiar blue you get so rarely. We had a glorious run up to Stromness,
having to slow down only very slightly for ice at the mouth of Cumberland West
Bay. We entered Stromness bay and anchored in 10 m of water only 10m from the
shore which was an extremely odd feeling but goes to show how steeply the
beaches slope here.
After a cup of thermos coffee and time to check that the
anchor was holding we got ready to put Keiron, Andy Black and Rod ashore to go
up to the site. The main problem with landing at Stromness is the Furriness of
the beach. We had to wait and look for a good spot with no males around. We
eventually found a place and put them in. They advanced up the beach in
formation with Andy, who had the longest bodger, leading the way. While they
went off up the hill to the site of the accident I put Alastair ashore to take
some panoramic shots of the whaling station and a shot or two of the blonde
Furry male on the beach, and Sue for a walk. I stayed and read on board in the
sun. All I could hear was the mewling and calling of the pups and their mothers
and then splashing gradually getting nearer and nearer to the boat. I looked
over the side and saw a couple of Furries coming and playing around Pipit. The
great game was to swim at the highest speed possible straight towards the boat
and at the last possible moment to either swerve to one side or to dive
underneath. The torrent of bubbles that they left streaming behind them turned
their fur silver and reflected the sun to morph them into speeding meteors,
melting into the kelp.
Blondie on the beach |
Returning to base we slipped into Leith
and then went over to Husvik to see the new huts that have been put in over
there. On our way out of the bay we came across one of the yachts that are
visiting at the moment. I was so envious of her coming in with full main and
foresail set. As we left I noticed a distinctive fold in the rock of the
mountain; Keiron reminded me it was the fold that Shackleton recognised
Stromness Bay by when he came over the mountains into the valley. I can see why
he would have recognised it, it is very distinctive. Leaving the bay we could
see small bergy bits floating in the sun and in the distance two huge tabular
bergs. I can’t believe that I am actually being paid to work here, it really is
mind blowing.
Iceberg |
That evening after supper we had a cake with ‘Farewell’ iced
on it and then we lit a bonfire for a last hurrah for the chaps that were
leaving. It was a lovely evening all sitting around the fire and chatting.
There was a big male Fur seal sitting quite close to the fire and he really
looked like he was enjoying it. It must have been the first time in his life
that he had actually been warm.
Friday morning broke with some people still rather merry
from the night before and others regretting they weren’t. We all came down to
the wharf at 0800 to release the Pharos’ lines and see them all off. At one of
the anchor points we had a small problem in that a Furry family had taken up
residence around it. Alastair and I had to tag team it with him advancing on
the male with a bodger while I came behind him and undid the line while he held
the male off. We all waved Matt, James and Les off with mixed feelings,
Alastair and Katie especially since they were meant to be on that Pharos but
have stayed to do some work for the government. For some people seeing Matt and
James off was very difficult since KEP will not be the same without them (Les
has been here a much shorter time). I had got used to their presence and
enjoyed their company and their loss will be felt by everyone. Friday was all
in all a very subdued day for everyone with us new people trying to keep out of
the way of the ex winterers and the ex winterers trying to get used to the base
without their counterparts.
On Saturday I climbed Brown Mountain
with Rod to check out a landing site for the Lynx helicopter that is coming
down with HMS Edinburgh on Monday. The Lynx will be helping to carry 300kg of
kit up to the top for a couple of German scientists who will be setting up a GPS
unit. I am not sure I will be walking up another hill with Rod, he is very tall
and has a loping stride that caused me to have to run to keep up with him. It
was a very nice morning trip though and we were back in time to help decorate
the church for Christmas.
It is base tradition that we all go over and help the museum
folk to decorate the church for a Christmas Service for us and whichever cruise
ships will be in on Christmas day. It was very nice, the Christmas spirit had
been lacking slightly on base for my liking and it was wonderful to hear some
carols as we worked (I have been playing carols in my room since December 1st
but they don’t really count). I built
the tree out of its box and then decorated it. I did have a moment’s pause when
I wondered how the puritan Norwegians who built the church would feel to have
it decorated in such a way, but Christmas is Christmas and should be celebrated
as much as possible.
Grytviken Church looking festive |
After we had finished the church we had mulled wine and
mince pies and a BBQ. If you stood close enough to the BBQ the snow that was
gently falling melted to rain but that all stopped soon enough and we enjoyed a
fine night of standing round a fire chatting again. I am still always amazed at
the atavistic feelings a fire can bring up in one. It was a good way to end the
week and brought all of us left behind closer I think. It was a pause for us
all to catch our breath before next week starts the mania again. Transferring
280 naval sailors from HMS Edinburgh to shore and back again will be quite a
long day but I am looking forward to it. Jumping in at the deep end again.
Fab pictures, thanks so much! The church reminds me of the Nissan hut chapel at Scapa Flow on Orkney, built by Italian PoWs. You should go to Orkney when you're back, it'll be like home from home! (It's truly fascinating, actually: Maes Howe, Broch of Birsay, Stenness, Skara Brae, St. Magnus, North Ronaldsay... and there's Stromness!) xx Love from us all, N
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