Monday 17 December 2012

A Mixed Week


This week has been rather an odd one. The Pharos arrived on Sunday and ever since then was at the end of the wharf metaphorically hanging over the heads of those who were leaving on Friday. We had the Chief Justice on the island for a familiarisation trip as well;  he came around the base to see what we do and to the bar on Wednesday evening to chat to us.

On Thursday we had an extended boating trip to Stromness so Keiron (GO) could photograph the site of an accident to a cruise ship passenger. We took Pipit and Luna and headed off at the very reasonable time of 0900. It was the most glorious ‘dingle’ day. The sun was shining and the sky was that peculiar blue you get so rarely. We had a glorious run up to Stromness, having to slow down only very slightly for ice at the mouth of Cumberland West Bay. We entered Stromness bay and anchored in 10 m of water only 10m from the shore which was an extremely odd feeling but goes to show how steeply the beaches slope here.

After a cup of thermos coffee and time to check that the anchor was holding we got ready to put Keiron, Andy Black and Rod ashore to go up to the site. The main problem with landing at Stromness is the Furriness of the beach. We had to wait and look for a good spot with no males around. We eventually found a place and put them in. They advanced up the beach in formation with Andy, who had the longest bodger, leading the way. While they went off up the hill to the site of the accident I put Alastair ashore to take some panoramic shots of the whaling station and a shot or two of the blonde Furry male on the beach, and Sue for a walk. I stayed and read on board in the sun. All I could hear was the mewling and calling of the pups and their mothers and then splashing gradually getting nearer and nearer to the boat. I looked over the side and saw a couple of Furries coming and playing around Pipit. The great game was to swim at the highest speed possible straight towards the boat and at the last possible moment to either swerve to one side or to dive underneath. The torrent of bubbles that they left streaming behind them turned their fur silver and reflected the sun to morph them into speeding meteors, melting into the kelp. 

Blondie on the beach
Returning to base we slipped into Leith and then went over to Husvik to see the new huts that have been put in over there. On our way out of the bay we came across one of the yachts that are visiting at the moment. I was so envious of her coming in with full main and foresail set. As we left I noticed a distinctive fold in the rock of the mountain; Keiron reminded me it was the fold that Shackleton recognised Stromness Bay by when he came over the mountains into the valley. I can see why he would have recognised it, it is very distinctive. Leaving the bay we could see small bergy bits floating in the sun and in the distance two huge tabular bergs. I can’t believe that I am actually being paid to work here, it really is mind blowing.  

Iceberg 
That evening after supper we had a cake with ‘Farewell’ iced on it and then we lit a bonfire for a last hurrah for the chaps that were leaving. It was a lovely evening all sitting around the fire and chatting. There was a big male Fur seal sitting quite close to the fire and he really looked like he was enjoying it. It must have been the first time in his life that he had actually been warm. 

Friday morning broke with some people still rather merry from the night before and others regretting they weren’t. We all came down to the wharf at 0800 to release the Pharos’ lines and see them all off. At one of the anchor points we had a small problem in that a Furry family had taken up residence around it. Alastair and I had to tag team it with him advancing on the male with a bodger while I came behind him and undid the line while he held the male off. We all waved Matt, James and Les off with mixed feelings, Alastair and Katie especially since they were meant to be on that Pharos but have stayed to do some work for the government. For some people seeing Matt and James off was very difficult since KEP will not be the same without them (Les has been here a much shorter time). I had got used to their presence and enjoyed their company and their loss will be felt by everyone. Friday was all in all a very subdued day for everyone with us new people trying to keep out of the way of the ex winterers and the ex winterers trying to get used to the base without their counterparts.

On Saturday I climbed Brown Mountain with Rod to check out a landing site for the Lynx helicopter that is coming down with HMS Edinburgh on Monday. The Lynx will be helping to carry 300kg of kit up to the top for a couple of German scientists who will be setting up a GPS unit. I am not sure I will be walking up another hill with Rod, he is very tall and has a loping stride that caused me to have to run to keep up with him. It was a very nice morning trip though and we were back in time to help decorate the church for Christmas.

It is base tradition that we all go over and help the museum folk to decorate the church for a Christmas Service for us and whichever cruise ships will be in on Christmas day. It was very nice, the Christmas spirit had been lacking slightly on base for my liking and it was wonderful to hear some carols as we worked (I have been playing carols in my room since December 1st  but they don’t really count). I built the tree out of its box and then decorated it. I did have a moment’s pause when I wondered how the puritan Norwegians who built the church would feel to have it decorated in such a way, but Christmas is Christmas and should be celebrated as much as possible.

Grytviken Church looking festive
After we had finished the church we had mulled wine and mince pies and a BBQ. If you stood close enough to the BBQ the snow that was gently falling melted to rain but that all stopped soon enough and we enjoyed a fine night of standing round a fire chatting again. I am still always amazed at the atavistic feelings a fire can bring up in one. It was a good way to end the week and brought all of us left behind closer I think. It was a pause for us all to catch our breath before next week starts the mania again. Transferring 280 naval sailors from HMS Edinburgh to shore and back again will be quite a long day but I am looking forward to it. Jumping in at the deep end again.

1 comment:

  1. Fab pictures, thanks so much! The church reminds me of the Nissan hut chapel at Scapa Flow on Orkney, built by Italian PoWs. You should go to Orkney when you're back, it'll be like home from home! (It's truly fascinating, actually: Maes Howe, Broch of Birsay, Stenness, Skara Brae, St. Magnus, North Ronaldsay... and there's Stromness!) xx Love from us all, N

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