We have had another exceedingly busy week. It was
certainly noticeable that some of us had walked or run half a mountainous
marathon on Sunday. There were more than one or two of us with limps or who
found it trickier than normal to get up out of chairs or in my case out of bed.
We started the week by taking the three soil beakers
(or microbial scientists as they would normally be called) to Sorling so they
could sample the lower end of the Barff peninsula. They are going to have a bit
of a slog over to St Andrews Bay which is a 6/7 hour walk or so. It was tougher
on the way back than on the way there because they had soil samples in their
packs as well. Oh the joys of being a scientist. The Commissioner, Nigel
Heywood, who has been visiting for the past week, made an announcement at our Monday
Morning Meeting declaring an increased level of protection for the MPA (Marine
Protected Area). There are increased spatial and temporal restrictions,
especially on the krill fishery, to avoid competition between the fishing vessels
and the predators such as penguins and
fur seals which depend on the krill. This makes South Georgia one of the most
protected areas in the world.
On Tuesday the Agulhas II came into the cove on a
good will visit. She is South Africa’s new research vessel and by all accounts
is state of the art. Unfortunately I was running boating and so couldn’t go
aboard but according to the people who did she is pretty
impressive. I managed to slightly twist their new boarding ladder (not
permanently) and shouted sorry to the officer at the top. He told me not to worry and that
it needed testing anyway, not quite the answer I was looking for but at least I
was useful.
On Tuesday we
also temporarily lost two members of base. Sue, Daniel and Katie (who is now
working for the government) went on board the Fishing Vessel Sil to do a groundfish
survey around the island. The data that they get from this fishing survey will
go to CCAMLAR (Convention for the Conservation of Antarctic Marine Living
Resources) and from this CCAMLAR will give the South Georgian government quotas
for the three commercial species: Patagonian Toothfish, Icefish and Krill. The
quotas are then reduced again slightly (to ensure sustainability) and this
final number is given to the vessels which fish in these waters. So as you can
see the groundfish survey is very important to the government and to the
continued sustainability of the fishery. An interesting development has just
arisen over this survey. Argentina does not recognise the South Georgian
Government and has declared to CCAMLAR that it intends to do its own groundfish
survey in our waters. They will not come
into King Edward Cove as every fishing vessel must for inspection and clearance
and according to the laws of South Georgia they will be fishing illegally. Now
this not only appears to be a deliberately provocative act by the Argentinean
government but also could have huge implications on the fishery since CCAMLAR
has to take the latest data to decide the quotas. This means that if the
Argentineans use different protocols to our survey their data could be
drastically different, and could massively reduce CCAMLAR’s quotas based on
that data, thereby damaging the fishery and the main source of income for the
South Georgian government. If the Argentineans do conduct their own survey we
will probably have to conduct one even later (probably just before the deadline
for data) to ensure that the correct data gets sent in to CCAMLAR and the
fishery is properly managed. The Argentinians have declared that they will be doing this at exactly the
same time as the Falkland Islands will be holding their referendum on
whether they want to stay British or become independent. We are avidly awaiting
developments.
On the Sil were also 5 meteorologists who came off
onto base. They are here to do some experiments and observations. They release
a balloon with a radiosonde (a piece of kit that measures location, height,
humidity, windspeed, etc) attached. These balloons are made of latex and filled
with helium till they are about 1.5/2m in diameter. They are released and
increase in size with the decrease in pressure as they rise. They generally
burst at the 32,000km region when they are about 11m in diameter. It is a
fairly impressive thought. The team also hope to fly a UAV (essentially a small
plane) with a whole load of instruments on board to gain a more detailed local
view of things. Unfortunately they haven’t yet managed to launch the plane due
to technical difficulties but these are being worked on as I write.
Paula and John release a balloon |
On Saturday we awoke to a very surprising 3.5inches
of snow on the ground and more falling. It is summer for pity’s sake!! It was
quite warm with the snow so it very soon turned to slush and we all had to get
the wellies out to reduce wet feet syndrome. In the afternoon we went to
collect the soil beakers and the sun had come out by then. It was incredibly
and austerely beautiful seeing the snow on the hills and having to make our way
slowly through pancake ice (from the freeze the previous night) and brash ice
(from the bergs breaking up in the warm weather we have been having in the past
few days). As we went along there were Wilson’s Storm Petrels (a black and
white bird the size of a swallow) all around us. I am not entirely sure what
they were doing but they would get very close to the surface of the water and
then put their legs down and seemingly dance on the surface as if they were
practising steps for a ballet. It was wonderful. That and the deep deep blue of
the inside of the bergs where cracks were forming just made my heart sing and
not for the first or last time I found myself amazed that I actually get paid
to do this job.
On Saturday we also gained the last member of our
wintering team. Hazel Woodland came in from the JCR. She has been the doc on
board since October and swapped yesterday to become our doc while John has gone
on board to become the JCR’s doc till the end of the season. Poor Hazel, who
has been waking up at 0200 for the past few days to help with science going on
at that time, arrived to a big Saturday Night. Sarah made reindeer pate and Joe
then BBQ’d reindeer and it was absolutely delicious. That was all fine but then when we moved from the dining room
to the bar things began to get a little rowdy and though suffering a fair
amount of sleep deprivation she battled cheerfully on, trying to hear conversations
with the music creeping ever louder, but in the end had to admit defeat and go
to bed. I thought she did very well since it must have been remarkably
overwhelming.
On Sunday morning I led a team (some bright eyed and
bushy tailed, others, slightly less so after the bar last night) over to
Maiviken to do Gentoo chick weighing. I was in charge of it because Daniel, who
should be in charge, had to go on the groundfish survey. Luckily at this stage
of their lives the chicks all crèche for safety and so they were very easy to
find. Unluckily however they were crecheing in the muddiest, foulest part of
Maiviken. We got into oilies and joined the fray. We decided to try and catch
them the old fashioned way: choose your penguin and then try and catch it,
gently pinning its wings to its side to minimise damage both to you and it. It
was so foul and so slippery that I found myself at one point with a penguin in
my arms, holding it off the ground, as we both skidded about 2/3m in the mud.
When we stopped the penguin and I just looked at each other. I was covered from
head to foot in glop and didn’t realise quite how bad my face was till I
returned home and had a shower. In the end we found it much easier to use the
small corral that Daniel had made to catch a group and then pick some out of
that group. It was much less stressful for everybody and Daniel should be proud
of his invention.
So another packed week has passed and another one is
just round the corner. We missed Burns Night on Friday and I am on cook
tomorrow so I think we might have a belated Burns Night dinner, complete with
haggis. Happy late Burns Night and have a safe week.
We just saw two Fiordland Crested Penguins here in New Zealand - the rarest penguins, apparently! One was moulting. Love from us, Nick
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