The lay of the land

I arrived at Skala Sikamineas, a port an hour's drive from the capital, Mytilini, last night. It is now the only port in the north of the island that will allow refugees to land. On the drive I could clearly see Turkey across the water a very short way away. It is very easy to see why this was such an easy spot for the refugees to come to. 

At the height of the crisis last year/ early this year 2000-3000 people arrived here each day. Now, due to the political situation with Turkey, only a few boats arrive a week, sometimes none a week. Currently, the busier route is to Italy, direct from Libya. The crossing is much longer and much more dangerous but they apparently feel they have no choice since they feel that going to Turkey is no longer the easiest way. However since the attempted coup there has been a slight increase in boats attempting the crossing here. 

The political situation here is very delicate. On the water are numerous agencies all there to help and/or apprehend the refugees. Frontex is the EU border force. The current ships in these waters are Portuguese who are apparently friendly and have the most to do with us and a few other nationalities. NATO vessels also patrol the waters, possibly to try and ensure no arms are smuggled. The Greek coastguard is obviously a huge presence here and we are here on their good will. Nothing must endanger our relationship with them. Relations with the Greek Coastguard are tense, sadly. Also patrolling the waters here is another NGO called Proactiva. We share patrols with them. Medecins Sans Frontières (MSF) have spotters above a lighthouse which attracts refugee boats and has a nasty reef under it. Lighthouse Rescue, the last NGO in the area meet the refugees when they're brought to shore, feed them, ensure they are medically ok and then they go to other camps on the island to be registered and to wait for removal back to Turkey under the new deal. 

We patrol every other morning from 0400 to 0800 checking for refugee boats and either guiding them into safe landing points or waiting with them, watching to ensure their safety, till Frontex or the coastguard take the refugees on board, leaving us to tow the usually devastatingly inadequate boats to the shore for disposal. 

Today we took the Mo Chara south for an hour to a port where we could take her out to go and have a new depth sounder and antenna fitted and a couple of other bits and bobs. We got back to Skala late afternoon and had a much needed swim with the setting sun. 

Tonight is my first patrol. Max (the coordinator) will act as skipper to show me the ropes. Wish me luck.