From Stanley

Well, here I am, about halfway to South Georgia. We flew into Stanley yesterday after leaving the UK on an MOD charter flight at 2300 on Sunday 28th. The plane was stuffed with Squadies, army families and some Falkland Islanders (I have discovered that if you were born on the island you are a Kelper) returning home. The first leg took 8 hours and we arrived in Ascension Island to refuel. For the hour and a half that we were there we were kept in a cage to ensure we didn't escape into landscape that is so tortuous that NASA has tested its Mars rovers there.

The second leg was plagued by head winds and took 9 hours. We were all VERY ready to get out about six hours in. Mount Pleasant Airfield is yet another military base stuck out in the middle of nowhere but this base is the entry point for most people (tourists included) into the Islands. After exiting the tiny baggage reclaim area (which was big enough for about 1/4 of the people actually on the flight (and which was the scene of about 300 people all looking for a camouflage or black military holdall)) we got into a bus that seemed to have lost its springs in around the mid '70's. Most of the main (only) road is not tarmacked and I cannot describe what the potholes felt like to people who had been sitting and squashed for 17 hours. The terrain is rather Scottish with wide rolling moors and sheep here and there. There are some buildings dotted around but they are far and few between and are all very windswept.

We arrived in Stanley at 1800 and at 1900, after a very quick shower and spruce up, went to a bar for a reception that the South Georgia Government had put on for us and for the people coming out. We all found ourselves flagging and fell asleep immediately our heads hit the pillow. However because of the 3 hour time difference I woke up at 0500.

Stanley reminds me of a mixture of a Highland village, a Norwegian town and funnily enough Rocksound in the Bahamas. There are a few shops that sell everything and everyone knows each other. The buildings are a mixture of slightly colonial and new Norwegian style built from wood and corrugated iron in varying fading bright colours. The nationalism here has to be seen to be believed. There are Union flags EVERYWHERE and everywhere is a reminder of the war. It seems to me (although it is rather harsh to say) that without the Falklands war the Falklands would be nothing and this might be why there are so many reminders of the conflict all over the place .

This morning we all went to see Rod, our Base Commander, be sworn in as a magistrate and we then had a briefing by the government as to what they do on South G.

With me in the group is:
Sue- fish scientist,
Daniel- seal scientist,
Joe- electrician (Sparky)
Rod- Base Commander (BC) and
Les -our boss who is coming out to inspect everything and make sure all is as it should be. Coming out on the the ship with us will also be Kieron, one of the Government Officers and Liz an architect for the refurbishment project they are doing on one of the houses.

After the swearing in a couple of us went to 'The West Store' to stock up on last minute things and after lunch as it was a beautiful day, Rod, Daniel and I walked 45 mins to Gypsy Cove, the other side of the Bay to see if we could find any Magellenic (or as they are known here 'Jackass' penguins. We met one standing outside its burrow and we were extremely close to it (10 feet (they are notoriously nervous normally)) before we noticed it. It was amazing to see an actual, real live, wild penguin right there in front of me. Then to top it all off we saw a pod of five dolphins feeding and moving round the coast. It was really magical. The walk back was rather breezy though and we figured out why they say it is windy here (the wind was blowing 45kts when we landed yesterday)

We join the South Georgian Government Fisheries Protection Vessel  Pharos tomorrow at 1530 and soon afterwards go round the point for fuel and then head off away from 'civilisation'. I am still nervous about it all but am also very excited and now just want to be there so I can get stuck in.

I am not sure when I will next be able to post but I am hoping to post at least once a week (and hopefully put some photos in too).

Anyway, the next time I will post I will probably be on South Georgia and getting stuck in.
Enjoy things till then.